Earlier this week, the east coast of Aus was kissed by a huge run of swell, setting off locales all across those stretches of sand.
Temperature-wise, things went a little funky. On Monday it was a capable 26 degrees, but by Tuesday, that plummeted to 10 degrees, max. And you never feel a temp drop that stark without something coming – and that was a deep low, about to march into the coast, slinging swell into the likes of Sydney.
Here, Nick Carroll reports:
Wednesday morning, Kobi Clements went down to check South Narrabeen with Dad Steve. Kobi sounds like he was still a bit cold after the evening session prior. “I wasn’t prepared for the cold that afternoon,” he says. “I had a 2/2 steamer and I was freezing.” Regardless: “It looked rough and windy but my first wave, I got the best backhand barrel I’ve ever got at Northy.”
Looking at South Narra, the Clementses saw these huge whitewater mounds out of the corners of their eyes, off to the left, and realised they were not where it was happening. “We didn’t check it at all, just went home and got my gun. I’ve got this new 8’0” Chilli, it’s a quad and I’ve never ridden a quad before. First wave I got I thought, wow, it does nice carves!”
The Bombie pumped for a couple of hours, then switched off. Maybe the tide? The wind went across it as well. “It stopped for about two hours,” says Kobi. “We all just sat there freezing.”
The swell had a real rhythm. Even as it declined slightly through the day, the pulse from this phase of the low was clear: bigger sets every six or seven minutes, one or two smaller sets in between, brief periods of near-flatness when you could have been tricked into thinking it was just another head high day.
There was mad variation — a weird combination of swell angle and interval. Deadman’s wasn’t even breaking. Avalon was 10-15’ for a little while in the morning. Cronulla Point was six feet.
Overnight it shifted again, looking a lot more like a normal beast of a thing. Kobi Clements went down to Southy and found it was good this time. The weather was a fraction warmer. Four seasons or six, this cracking time of year is almost at an end.
Two surfers had beaten Kobi out to Northy Bombie. Matt and Ben Dunsmore took different roads out through the very tricky entry, Matt through the Alley, Ben the other side. Dylan Moffat hit it about the same time, then over an hour or so out came a bunch of the Narrabeen crew. “You see similar faces out on days like this,” says Kobi, “it’s a good feeling, you’re becoming friends.”