If you're an avid follower of big wave aficionados on the likes of Insty, by now, you'll be well tuned into the preparation, the excitement, the nervous, manic moments that playout when an X to XXL swell is set to rifle into Hawaii. You know, the kind of swell numbers that look set to spark Jaws to life, inviting challenge from only the committed over the weekend.
And roar to life it did, with Sunday being a standout and the first XXL session to throw down in 2019. Yet, for some, the dream was short-lived. Jaws, though big, clean...spitting its guts up after hollow, heaving kegs; a few of your key protagonists (Billy Kemper et al) had to shoot straight back to Oahu for the Backdoor shootout in macking conditions.
Meanwhile, Ian Walsh, Yuri Soledade and a few other souls sampled Jaws prime rib in the first XL session of 2019 in Hawaii. “Got pounded, dislocated my finger, and messed my rib up today, still worth it,” wrote Joao Marco Maffini via everyone's favourite social media platform.
If you were lucky enough, you'd find yourself staring down one of those arms' wide, double-decker-sized classic Jaws tubes (though few and far between). Feast on the gallery throughout, courtesy of Maui Media Cartel.
And the birth of this storm that slammed Hawaii over the weekend? Tony Butt, MSW forecaster, breaks it down: “A low pressure system spawned northeast of Japan on Wednesday deepened, explosively, into a powerful system just south of the Aleutian Islands.
“An area of storm-force winds on its southern flank generated a large, long-period swell that propagated towards Hawaii. The first long-period forerunners arrived on Saturday with periods up to 24 secs initially and then levelld off to around 17 to 18 secs as the swell filled in with open-ocean wave heights of 10 to 12 feet.
"Sunday, the wave height jacked up and those extra pulses kept it more or less steady. It's due to lose its punch mid-week.”
And remember, keep your finger on the pulse for all things Jaws by going right HERE..